Here are a few knit items I managed to sew up in between this or that in the last week. All are from patterns I have used before, so that made them go even quicker and use up less brain power. Not to mention I am so tired and foggy these days that I can't even bring myself to read and/or figure out anything new. Lazy sewing at its best!
Floral Tank and Color Blocked Yoga Pants
Pattern(s): Ottobre Woman 2/2007 #1 tank top and heavily modified Kwik Sew 3155 yoga pants (based on a pair of well-fitting yoga pants I already had).
Fabric: Floral and solid cotton lycra from Fabric.com, cotton lycra french terry from JOS co-op. The french terry didn't have quite enough lycra in it to function well as a yoga waistband, so I used the purple cotton lycra instead. I actually like to wear it up over my belly for the insta-spanx effect, but it does look cuter down. Unfortunately I have to massively suck in my ripped up stomach muscles (thanks, kids!) to make that look work though, so most of the time I opt for comfort.
Instead of doing a binding on the tank top, I just added 3/8" to the neckline and armholes, pressed it under, and top stitched with my coverstitch machine. I love how it turned out and it was actually easier than dealing with a bunch of long, fiddly binding strips. I recently purchased a clear foot for my coverstitch, so I was able to get my hems nice and even without all the cursing and swearing that my old opaque foot demanded.
Floral Sundress
Pattern: Simplicity 3882. This pattern is at least 3 years old, and was one of the first knit projects I ever sewed. When I first bought it, I remember thinking, "gee, this pattern goes a little far into 80s territory." Silly me.
Since this was my third time making this pattern, I finally cut the humongous 5/8" seam allowances down to 1/4" on my pattern tracings. I hate huge seam allowances on knits. Also, now that I have a serger, I don't do casings anymore. I serge and topstitch all my elastic on, just like you would on a swimsuit. I cut the elastic pieces a few inches shorter than indicated to account for the extra stretching out.
Fabric: Floral cotton lycra from Fabric.com.

That's all for now. I still have charcoal gray in all my machines from the yoga pants, so I think my next project will be a light Summer hoodie for DS out of the scraps. Until then!
Leah, I'm always so envious when I see what you've made with knits. I live in knits, and would LOVE to be able to sew with them, but I'm scared of them. I also don't have a coverstitch machine, so I'm afraid anything I attempted to make would look amateur.
ReplyDeleteYou make it look so easy :)
Jen, you can sew all of these items with just your sewing machine, I promise! You don't have to wait for the "right" machines. :) I sewed tons of knits before I had a coverstitch or even a serger, and they looked plenty nice. I only ended up getting the additional machines because I was sewing so many knit items, I wanted to speed up my sewing and try more techniques.
ReplyDeleteYou can use a narrow zig-zag (2.5mm long by .5mm wide or 2.0mm by 1.0mm for very stretchier seams) and a ballpoint needle with great results. Pick up a Kwik Sew or Jalie pattern--they have wonderful instructions for knits. Try it and you might be surprised! :)
Eeek! I'll take a look at Joann's next time I'm there, I think they have Kwik Sew patterns. I'm still not sure I would like the zig zag though, I think I may be snobby and prefer the way a knit piece looks using a coverstitch or serger. I'll let you know when I work up the courage to take on a project!
ReplyDeleteAh, the dreaded zig-zag topstitch! Lol. No, I wasn't advocating that (although rtw *does* use often have zig-zag topstitching on bathing suits), I was thinking of your seams. Trust me, once you wash a knit garment a couple times, it really doesn't matter if those seams are serged on the inside. No one will know, and in 6 months you won't care about it, you will just think how much you love your top/dress/pants. :)
ReplyDeleteFor topstitching knits with a sewing machine, I used to, and sometimes still use:
- a strech blind-hem stitch. Looks nice for t-shirt hems, as seen in many nicer rtw clothes.
- a ball point or stretch twin needle. Consult your manual for how to thread. I used this constantly before I got my coverstitch, with good results. Just lengthen your stitch, go slowly over seams, and never ever backstitch. Sometimes it tunnels a little, but no one ever seemed to notice this.
- a lengthened straight stitch, for neckline bindings. I need to do a tutorial on this one, as I still use this technique a lot.
The main tricks to stitching knits are to use the right needle, lengthen your stitch, let up on the pressure foot pressure, and give every seam a nice hit of steam with your iron before you press it.
Yes, a serger/coverstitch will speed up your sewing and give you ultra professional results, but unless you already know how to work with knits, you may still be disappointed. Sergers are a whole other skill with quite a learning curve. Best to learn how to work with knits first, that way when you upgrade your machines that will be one less hill to conquer! :)